Destination
Madrid, Spain
Sleep
Mandarin Oriental Ritz
Eat
Chocolateria San Gines | Casa Goyo | El Imparcial | Palm Court
Shop
El Corte Ingles | Libreria Desperate Literature
See
Circulo de Bellas Artes | Temple of Debod | Museo Reina Sofia | Libreria San Gines
Life is full of surprises. I didn’t expect that it would take until 2023 for us to finally get to Madrid. And I didn’t expect to react to it the way I did when we finally arrived. Although the trip was years in the making, I went into it with very few preconceived notions of how it would be – and while the city didn’t bowl me over, it grew on me slowly, so that I find myself now looking back on it with a level of fondness I didn’t anticipate.
If all stories are love stories (and they are), then this one was a slow burn. Paris was my first love, of course, while Rome is the one that got away. Athens is the place I didn’t know I needed all along. But Madrid – I simply didn’t see coming. And didn’t fully appreciate until it was, at least figuratively, gone again.
So we’ll go back again, although I can’t say that I know exactly when that will be. In the meantime, I’ll look back on our time in the city with a still somewhat perplexing, but nonetheless persistent, admiration. I liked Madrid. A lot, really – but I still lack the right words to cogently explain why. Until I find them I can, at least, tell you about the places I enjoyed visiting in the city, in case you’re planning a trip yourself.
Sleep
Mandarin Oriental Ritz
We stayed in an Airbnb in Madrid, as we most often do when we travel. It was clean and well located, but overall not the kind of special place I felt strongly enough about to recommend. But on our last day in the city, we visited the Mandarin Oriental Ritz for lunch and I’ve rarely been so impressed by a hotel. It is luxurious in the extreme, and priced accordingly (which is to say that it is far from budget friendly.) The service was impeccable, the decor breathtaking and yet – the vibe was perfectly relaxed. If I could find any way to manage it, that’s where we’d stay on our next trip to the Spanish capital.
Eat
I confess that on previous trips to Spain, we’ve had mixed dining experiences – and mostly shrugged them off, thinking that there must be some truth to the cliche that the Spanish aren’t known for their cuisine. Perhaps they aren’t, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t a wide variety of local dishes to try, many of which are delicious. The local diet in Madrid is heavy on pork, cheese and potatoes. In fact, if anything, Spanish cuisine isn’t the most varied in Europe, which might contribute to its reputation. There are still wonderful places to eat in Madrid. We found lots of them.
Chocolateria San Gines – Pasadizo de San Gines, 5
I’m still not exactly sure where Spanish cuisine gets its lacklustre reputation. After all, how can anyone be disappointed or underwhelmed by the food in a city where the standard breakfast is churros with hot chocolate? I certainly wasn’t. Churros are available for breakfast in almost every local cafe, but not every churro is created equal. We tried a number of cafes that specialise in churros con chocolate (or churros con cafe, which I prefer.) Our favourite was Chocolateria San Gines, a true local classic, where prices are fair, tables are always bustling and the churros are perfectly crispy.
Casa Goyo – Calle de la Lechuga, 3
A relatively new restaurant in the neighbourhood near Plaza Mayor, Casa Goyo was our local spot, just around the corner from our apartment. And we couldn’t have asked for better. They offer unfussy, classic Spanish dishes at incredibly reasonable prices considering the quality of the food they serve. I went back more than once specifically to enjoy their classic tortilla, but there was nothing on the menu that we tried and didn’t love. The restaurant itself is simply but lovingly decorated, with white marble tabletops and tiled walls. It isn’t fancy, but that isn’t always what you want or need. It is, on the other hand, somewhere you’ll always find a good meal in a pleasant atmosphere.
El Imparcial – Calle de Duque de Alba, 4
For a completely different dining experience in the same neighbourhood, you can visit El Imparcial. Located on the second floor above a small shop, this trendy restaurant is well known despite being basically unmarked on the outside. We were lucky to walk in and get a table when we did visit. While the cuisine is Spanish, the kitchen reinterprets classic dishes in new and unusual ways that do not disappoint.
Palm Court – Plaza de Lealtad, 5
For a truly fabulous lunch, look no further than the Palm Court in the Mandarin Oriental Ritz. The atmosphere is quiet and refined, while the food is impeccable. I still dream about the croquetes. They’re on every menu in Madrid, but they’re best at the Palm Court – without question.
Shop
Spain is the home of Inditex, the parent company that owns Zara, Mango and a number of other fast fashion retailers, whose stores dot the landscape all over Madrid (and other Spanish cities, t00.) I own my fair share of fast fashion garments, I admit, but I’m not about to rush to recommend any of these retailers, whose business practises are questionably ethical at best. Spain is also home to Loewe, a brand worthy of its luxury price tag in my limited experience. We still don’t shop much on holiday, but there were a couple of stores that captured our attention, as always.
El Corte Ingles – Various locations
El Corte Ingles is the preeminent Spanish department store. There are numerous locations in Madrid, and the rest of Spain, too. We visited a few in Madrid – the loveliest was in Salamanca, and the largest was the location at Preciados. More than for shopping, the experience of visiting a department store in a foreign country is way of looking through a different window on what life in that country is like – what clothes regular people wear, what kind of shoes they buy, and what groceries they eat. Consider it research, and stop in.
Libreria Desperate Literature – Calle de Campomanes, 13
Of course, I must find a bookstore wherever I travel. And while I found several in Madrid, this petite international shop was by far my favourite. The selection of secondhand books was dizzying – and they were available in almost every European language in which you might want to do some reading. This, in spite of the fact that the shop on measures about five hundred square feet. I spent entirely too much time browsing, and left a happy customer with a very heavy bag of books in my hand.
See
Madrid, for me, is synonymous with art museums. There are just so many good ones, from the famous Prado to some lesser known, but uniquely wonderful smaller ones. But there is much more than art in the city, and we found ourselves pleasantly surprised by the attractions we really loved.
Circulo de Bellas Artes – Calle de Alcala, 42
The best views of the Madrid skyline can be seen from the rooftop of this heritage building, which also houses a small art collection. The interior is all faded glory, a dimly lit place that is still elegant despite being well past its prime and often forgotten in favour of its outdoor spaces. And I admit – the views are stunning, especially if the buildings across the Gran Via aren’t under construction (as they were when we visited.) But the building itself, and the exhibits they display in it, are worth a visit, too. If you’ve already seen enough art, though, you can skip the gallery and make a reservation for drinks on the rooftop terrace. Views are prettiest in the early evening, just as sunset starts.
Temple of Debod – Calle de Ferraz, I
Possibly our favourite, and certainly the most unusual, place to visit in Madrid – you can read more about it here.
Museo Prado – Calle de Ruiz de Alarcon, 23
Upon reflection, although Madrid’s preeminent museum doesn’t allow photography, it was still my favourite among those we visited when we were in the city. I particularly loved the large format paintings displayed on the main floor. Obviously, I can’t share any pictures, but you can read more about our visit here.
Libreria San Gines – Pasadizo de San Gines, 2
To me, this book shop is more tourist destination than shop, unless you speak fluent Spanish. The tiny spot, which dates back to the 17th century, primarily sells books in Spanish. But it really doesn’t matter if you buy anything. It’s the visit that’s the point. The Liberia San Gines is a time capsule, an iconic piece of Madrid history, and also – just adorable. If you love books, it’s not to be missed.
